Cut the shaft tube off of the old gear then place the cut piece above the new gear on the shaft, forcing the new gear down towards the metal gear of the motor (see schematic). There was one major issue the gear was traveling up and down the shaft. I replaced the old gear with the new one. The staff recommended a set of gears used for RC helicopters. This shop has the best selection in scale models and they have best selection of RC kits and parts for airplanes, autos, and helicopters. Excellent place for finding just about anything you may need. Next step I’ll have to remove the gearbox from the motor. The motor spins, so I touched the first gear with the exacto knife while the motor was running and I felt a slight catch but it was not constant. All of the gears fit well and spins without any slack. Using the just the point of the exacto knife, turn the first gear watch to see if it turns the other gears. Note: As the gears step up, the gears will get harder and harder to spin. The gear that is the easiest one to rotate would be that first gear. Take an exacto knife and pry off the gearbox cover (that brown stuff is just old glue holding the cover on), and slide the cover back. Next, remove the tiny screw (don’t lose it) next to the wires. Pull the motor from the clock (there are no screws holding the motor on except for the two nuts that were removed when taking the shield off. I did not hear a grinding noise…could be a good sign. Now I wanted to see what was going on in the gearbox. So I added WD40 to the gears coming from the gearbox to the actual gears that run the flip clock. I shot the WD40 in the small holes just like what I had seen online. Oiling being the easiest solution, that is what I did first. Note: most flip clock how-to instructions state that to fix these old clocks all one has to do is lube the motor with WD40. Now the clock assembly can be turned on its side so that you can access the motor. Flip the base up and notice two screws underneath the clock – remove both and remove the electrical tape holding the wire bundle in place. Those extra screws were for the base where all of the components are attached to. When I originally unscrewed the bottom of the clock case, I stated that all of the screws have to be removed except for the screws for the speaker and the one that looked like it sat on a triangle. The only solution is to remove the clock assembly from the base. Looking at the motor, you will notice that there is absolutely no room to work. I feel that I can write a how-to on just the steps that I took to solve the clock issue and ignore the discovery phase or I can tell the painful truths with all of my embarrassing hits and misses as I work my way to a final solution or call me long winded. For the mechanics, this Instructable will read like a diary. But most importantly a broken Flip Clock (that is what I will be working on) The radio and alarm works. Small scratches in the 100% pure fake plastic wood grain case 3. I can live without this one too for awhile because I can set the time without it. Knob for setting the time on the side of the case. I can live without it because I can move the nub with my fingers and I won't need that option for where it is going. Missing two knobs (possibly a future instructable): a. Here comes the bad news - we brought it home and ended up falling in love with the clock radio so steampunking the item was out of the question and restoration became the priority. Would it be cool to find an old flip clock to steampunk? Good News and Bad News: Good News: My chance came a few days ago and I bought a 70s Lloyds Solid State clock in an antiques flea market for a whopping $5.00 …could not pass it up.
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